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The Grand Cru dry wines of Weiser-Künstler are among the most cerebral dry Rieslings made in the Mosel. They are wines of meditation, wines that seem to have something more to do with distillates or teas made from stone, ore and flower. They have very little easy fruit to hang one’s hat on. In other words, they are among the most thrilling wines from this fabled place.
The 2023er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 92-93° Oechsle on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (68 g/l). It immediately captures one’s attention as it reveals a comparatively rich and aromatic nose of fine exotic fruits, honey, fresh pineapple, William pear, acacia, mirabelle, plum, and cinnamon. The wine coats the palate with some juicy and slightly honeyed fruits yet leaves a fresh and nicely focused and refreshing long finish. There is good extract and presence, without any undue power. The aftertaste still needs to integrate its sweetness, which will happen in a decade or more
From a cooler, higher part of the grand cru that is facing east-southeast on rocky, reddish soils, the 2022 Hengst Wintzenheim Riesling opens with a very deep and coolish, intense and complex yet refined and elegant, terroir-driven bouquet with fresh appl...
A rich, lushly textured style, offering bitter peach skin and orchard fruit backed by tangy acidity. Full and broad in feel, with chalky mineral notes drawing out the zingy, smoke-laced finish. This is balanced and focused, showing chamomile and flint det...