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The Paitin 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Sorì Paitin Vecchie Vigne is the outlier in this group of new releases. The warm vintage has produced soft and more concentrated fruit with greater textural weight on the finish. That vintage difference, and perhaps the ...
The 2019 Bianco Contrada Passochianche (PC) opens slowly in the glass,
with dusty florals and hints of smoke giving way to a vivid note of fresh
slices of Granny Smith apple. It’s savory on the palate with textures like
pure silk and a cool-toned fresh...
The 2021 Contrada Rampante (R) grumbles up from the glass, youthfully
backward, dusty and dark with a core of dried black cherries and autumnal
spice that comes forward with coaxing. This is far more lifted and feminine
than expected. Tart red berry fr...
The 2021 Contrada Sciaranuova (S) is a well-muscled dancer who enters
the stage coy and withdraws, forcing the taster to work for its youthfully
backward bouquet. Suggestions of dried roses, licorice, wild strawberries
and clove are enshrouded by sweet...
his is comes from a vineyard of chardonnay planted on volcanic dust in the area of Guardiola. It’s perfumed with a mineral and lightly cooked lemon character. Some apple. Dust, too. Medium to full body. Lemon curd. Light lemon and a crisp finish. Drink or...
The 2021 Passorosso is coy in the glass, slowly opening with
suggestions of dusty rose and dried strawberries complicated by a hint
of sweet Indian curry. It’s silky yet racy with a salty minerality that
comes forward quickly, perfectly balanced by a c...
The 2022 Passobianco wafts up with a pretty and lifted air of
wildflowers, chalk dust and a gentle tinge of spice. This opens with a
lovely inner sweetness and ripe orchard fruits as traces of salty
minerals and a bump of brisk acidity add balance. It ...
The 2022 Etna Rosso Contrada Rampante is intense, wafting up with all
of the volcanic ash and stones that make up its soils, complicated by
grilled herbs and citrus-laced blackberries. This is surprisingly juicy and
energetic in feel, with a wave of vi...
The 2022 Etna Rosso Contrada Chiappemacine, tasted from barrel, is
rosy and perfumed with hints of exotic spice, giving way to notes of
dried strawberry. This is supple and round, quite elegant in feel, with
crisp minerality and crunchy wild berry frui...
Smoky and ashy in the glass, the 2022 Etna Rosso Contrada Guardiola
opens with a burst of ashen stones and grilled herbs, evolving into
crushed black cherries and lifted by hints of menthol. It sweeps across
the palate with textures of pure silk as a p...
The 2022 Etna Rosso Contrada Sciaranuova is youthfully coy, with a
dusty blend of dried flowers, earth tones and ash wafting up from the
glass. Silky yet lifted and finessed, it sweeps across the palate with
medium-weight textures and bright red berry ...