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The 2022 Riesling Bockenauer Felseneck Kabinett is from the poor
slate-based soils because Fröhlich believes that slate and Kabinett go
together. It was harvested across three terraces where the vineyard
turns a corner towards the southwest. It benefit...
The 2022 Riesling Bockenauer Felseneck Spätlese Goldkapsel is always
from the poor, rocky parcels of the Felseneck. "For us, Goldkapsel
always signifies the most filigree Spätlesen," says Tim Fröhlich. “When
we decide what Goldkapsel is, it is the fine...
The 2022 Riesling Bockenauer Felseneck Grosses Gewächs is made
from vines between 60-65 years old, Fröhlich’s site with the highest
average vine age. The nose has an exotic notion that flickers somehow
between pineapple and lemon. The palate is super-l...
The 2023 Riesling Oestricher Lenchen Kabinett brims with apple
blossom, green apple and lemon on the nose. These notions duly
appear on the palate, where they are made even livelier with lemon.
Gentle sweetness makes this exquisitely juicy; the 45 g/L ...
The Palmberg is Stein’s “Grand Cru” and a vineyard to measure against any other vineyard in the Mosel, period. It is an awesome site, an ancient wall of vines filled with ungrafted plantings that are 90+ years old. The Palmberg is cut on one side by a stream, so the vineyard angles away from the Mosel. In former times this was likely a liability, the cool wind pouring down the valley and the distance from the river keeping optimum ripeness in all but the top vintages just beyond grasp. This is no longer an issue and these cooler vineyards, especially when they have old vines, are a massive asset. This wine is ruthless, cut, mineral, fresh and phenolic. It is quite simply one of my favorite wines of this vintage and it will age, easily, for 10-20+ years.
“Weihwasser” meaning Holy Water, from vines in the St. Aldegunder Klosterkammer vineyard near the old church in Alf. Barely off dry with salty lemon, pear and extremely high drinkability. This is a PERFECT old school feinherb as they used to be made, low in alcohol and disappears in the glass before you know it.
The 2021 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett opens with clear, pure, precise and intense fruit that is delicate rather than showing off and intertwined with fine slate aromas. Lush and savory on the palate, this is a crystalline, saline and fruity, pret...
The 2022er Goldgrube Riesling, as it is referred to on the consumer label, is a bone-dry wine made from fruit harvested on up to 120-year-old un- grafted vines and was left for 1 year on its gross lees. It has a beautifully and finely reductive and very herbal nose of minty thyme, rosemary, white pepper, spearmint, flintstone, and other wild herbs, before showing fine scents of white flowers and lime tree. The wine starts off on a slightly round and creamy side, yet an acidic backbone clearly comes through and leads to a straight and quite spicy long finish. This defies the richer side of the 2022 vintage and proves superbly refined and playful. The aftertaste is all about smoke and white flowers and proves bone-dry in taste.
