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Based on 90% to 95% botrytised grapes, the golden-yellow 2021 Ürziger In der Kranklei Riesling Beerenauslese offers a concentrated, piquant and minerally fresh nose with stewed apricot, candied lemon and flinty slate aromas. Rich but fine, the palate is v...
The 2023 Riesling Ayler Kupp Stirn No. 15, picked on the crest of the
Ayler Kupp at almost 275 meters, benets from a south-facing but cool
and ventilated location. Old vines yield tiny grapes and an airy sense of
ripe peach and apricot rises dreamily f...
The 2023 Riesling Ayler Schonfels Grosses Gewächs No. 11 comes from
a well-ventilated, exposed cli above the Saar. A wonderfully complex
nose oers a hint of cocoa butter with a touch of cumin. The rounded
palate delivers lemon-lled freshness with a sli...
“Barrel X” is winemaker Florian Lauer’s Platonic ideal of what a slightly off-dry (feinherb) Saar Riesling should be. If we were in Burgundy, this would be the equivalent of a “Bourgogne Blanc.” As an appellation-level wine, it is sourced from multiple vineyards in four different villages of the Saar: Ayl (Lauer’s home village), Saarburg, Wawern and Wiltingen. Florian says, “From Ayl and Wawern, the wine gains the fruit and power, from Saarburg the racy acidity, and from Wiltingen, the spice.”
Regardless of what comes from where, this much is certain: dollar for dollar, I’m not sure there is a 750ml bottle that delivers as much joy and zing. This is the gateway drug to Lauer, to the Saar, to Riesling… be careful. Very addictive.
While everyone yanks the wheel to the right, doing ever-more dry wines, Lauer holds his own course, providing for us new treasures for our campaign: “Spätlese is the new Kabinett.” Some say Spätlese is the heart of the vintage; I’m not 100% sure but this is delicious, light and zingy and refreshing. Dinner Spätlese – not for dessert.
The 2022 Spätburgunder Dernau Pfarrwingert GG pleases with perfect fruit ripeness and nuances of licorice, very fine slate notes and floral aromas in an elegant, fresh, wonderfully balanced and delicate bouquet. Dense, fresh, very elegant and stimulatingl...