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And variety is everything, so I wouldn’t fill my island cooler with\u0026nbsp;\u003cem\u003ejust\u003c/em\u003e\u0026nbsp;Jean Foillard’s Beaujolais-Villages. But this kind of red makes you suspend reason for a moment and devote yourself to it, at least while the wine’s still in your glass.\u003cbr /\u003e\u0026nbsp; \u0026nbsp; \u0026nbsp;After all, Beaujolais-Villages has no business being this good, but Jean Foillard is an extraordinary vigneron. A decade or so ago, Jean made Beaujolais Nouveau that he would expedite to us each November to meet the deadline of the worldwide Nouveau celebration. That Nouveau was outstanding and he didn’t\u0026nbsp;need\u0026nbsp;to change anything, but he had an epiphany that only the most ambitious sort of grower has: the grapes he was using were of high enough quality to make a cuvée with more depth and complexity, so he proposed taking his time to produce a Beaujolais-Villages instead of a hurried Nouveau.\u003cbr /\u003e\u0026nbsp; \u0026nbsp; \u0026nbsp;Blending grapes from high-elevation, granite-heavy terroirs barely outside the region’s crus, and with a patient\u0026nbsp;élevage\u0026nbsp;that’s very close to that of his world-class Morgons, this wine is silky and seductive, with notes of rose petals, red fruit, pomegranate, and stones. 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The 2022 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru has another tightly wound nose like the Montée de Tonnerre, a subtle marine element emerging with time, a touch of wild fennel. The palate has much more body and depth than the aforementioned Premier Cru, with good densi...
The 2022 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru has a clean and precise bouquet with hints of wild peach, apricot blossom, Mirabelle and crushed stone. The palate is well-balanced with a very harmonious entry, blackcurrant leaf and spice, crushed stone...
The 2022 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru is not unlike the Valmur on the nose: backward and a little sultry in style, with faint touches of crustacea coming through. The palate is more generous with orchard fruit, hints of apricot and wild peach, and fine a...
The 2022 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru has a less immediate nose than the Bougros, with hints of lanolin and estuarine scents, lemon verbena and fern. This builds with confidence in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with fine delineation and cohesion, a...
The latest addition to Jean Foillard’s stellar lineup of Morgons comes from the Charmes 'lieu-dit', one of the highest parcels in the appellation. A truly fine wine, this cuvée features a bit more crunch with lots of bright acidity and a leaner, more min...
The 2023 Morgon Côte du Py comes from several parcels of granite
and schistous soils with many centurion vines. This has a wonderful,
very complex bouquet with exquisite delineation: crushed stone lters
through dark berry fruit alongside hints of ash a...
The 2023 Morgon Cuvée Corcelette comes from well-drained granite
soils and is aged for nine months in used barrel. It has a perfumed
bouquet of incense that blossoms with aeration, as touches of brown
spice infuse the red fruit. The palate is medium-bo...
Every so often, I take a sip of a “humble” regional wine that makes me question everything. With a glass of this in hand, I think to myself, who cares about grand cru Burgundy? Or, why would I ever drink anything else? Or, surely this is the bottle I’d choose to fill my cooler with if I were stranded on a desert island. When I’m able to think rationally again, of course I’d pounce on a bottle of Taupenot-Merme’s grand cru Corton Rognet or the Perret family’s majestic Condrieu I write about in this month’s newsletter. And variety is everything, so I wouldn’t fill my island cooler with just Jean Foillard’s Beaujolais-Villages. But this kind of red makes you suspend reason for a moment and devote yourself to it, at least while the wine’s still in your glass. After all, Beaujolais-Villages has no business being this good, but Jean Foillard is an extraordinary vigneron. A decade or so ago, Jean made Beaujolais Nouveau that he would expedite to us each November to meet the deadline of the worldwide Nouveau celebration. That Nouveau was outstanding and he didn’t need to change anything, but he had an epiphany that only the most ambitious sort of grower has: the grapes he was using were of high enough quality to make a cuvée with more depth and complexity, so he proposed taking his time to produce a Beaujolais-Villages instead of a hurried Nouveau. Blending grapes from high-elevation, granite-heavy terroirs barely outside the region’s crus, and with a patient élevage that’s very close to that of his world-class Morgons, this wine is silky and seductive, with notes of rose petals, red fruit, pomegranate, and stones. With just the right amount of tannin and acidity, and lots of class, it is perfect for all occasions.
It was a first for me, as I had never tasted wines from this estate before, and the 2022 Gigondas is a real surprise—an outstanding wine. It evokes aromas of ripe dark berries, spices, garrigue and subtle earthy undertones, with a hint of smoke and licori...
Lots of uber-rich black cherries, melted licorice, and peppery notes emerge from the 2023 Vacqueyras, a ripe, medium to full-bodied, plush, nicely concentrated 2023.
A custom cuvée for European Cellars and a joint project between Eric Solomon and Jean-Marc Lafage, Bastide Miraflors is a cuvée created from old vine Grenache (30%) grown on the schist and granite soils of Saint-Paul de Fenouillet, a terroir that always ripens late in the year, and Syrah (70%) from gravelly soils near the Mediterranean. After a long maceration of six weeks, the wine ages for 12 months in roughly 3/4 concrete vats and 1/4 600L French oak demi-muids.