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Aromas of honeysuckle, pear and freshly baked bread introduce the 2023 Bourgogne Côte d'Or, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and satiny wine that's lively and charming.
The 2022 Meursault Chevalières 1er Cru had not gone through
malolactic when I tasted it from barrel. Composed and rened, the
nose oers touches of walnut and apple blossom. I appreciate the
harmony here. The palate is understandably sharp at the moment ...
The 2022 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes is especially good this year, offering up aromas of citrus oil, lemon curd, pear, white flowers and bread dough framed by a deft touch of youthful reduction. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and suave, with a deep, mult...
The Upper Mosel has nothing to do with Riesling and nothing to do with slate. Instead, we find limestone. The Upper Mosel in fact represents the beginning (or the end?) of the Paris Basin, the geological reality that informs places like Chablis and Sancerre. Instead of Riesling, in the Upper Mosel we find a winemaking culture based on one of Europe’s oldest grapes: Elbling. It’s important to understand that Elbling here feels like something of a religion. It’s a culture, a regional dialect that is spoken through this wine of rigorous purity, of joyous simplicity, of toothsome acidity. The joy of Elbling is the uncompromising vigor and energy, the raucous and super-chalky acidity. Matthias Hild, who farms about six hectares in the sleepy town of Wincheringen, told me that back in the 1980s, when he’d have an Elbling clock in at less than 8.5 grams acid, he’d taste it and question if it was Elbling at all. Which is sort of like saying you’re not sure the music is loud enough because your ears aren’t bleeding.
Vines for the Sekt are from within 4km of Wincheringen. After harvest the Sekt goes through a 21-day cold fermentation in stainless steel. After malolactic fermentation the wine is stored on it’s lees for 9-18 months until disgorgment. Dosage is 10-12g/L.
The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl was harvested partly in
the loess-dominated Axpoint vineyard, with the majority coming from
the rockier foot of the Singerriedel site. Alluring fruit on the nose
combines juicy yellow apple, freshest green pea...
The 2023 Riesling Steinterrassen Federspiel is a pre-harvest of the four
single sites for Riesling of the estate, Setzberg, Hochrain, Steinporz and
Singerriedel. Fragrant citrus foliage combines its headiness with the
creaminess of pale apricot. The pa...
