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Gently reductive upon opening (and still now, after 20 minutes in the glass), the 2021 Pinot Noir is savory and spicy with peppercorns, licorice, black cherry and a hint of tapenade. A pleasurable black tea bitterness lingers after the wine has gone. I li...
The tiny production 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum comes from a single parcel in the famed La Crau lieu-dit and is brought up in demi-muids. Released only in magnum, it's consistently been one of the most singular, brilliant expressions of Gre...
Key vineyards: Widows, Motukawa and Estate. Hand-picked selected lots within blocks. They're looking for the older vines. Less new oak than there used to be (though there is some sweet oakiness) and less ripe fruit. They start the ambient-yeast ferment in...
It must be difficult being Cloudy Bay, because fame brings extra scrutiny and the question, ‘Does this brand offer value for money in the context of the wider region?’ In 2023, the Sauvignon Blanc silences its critics. Its vineyard may be much larger than...
The 2021 Pinot Noir Wendling Vineyard is phenomenal. Dark and pliant, with tremendous vertical intensity, the Wendling is outrageously beautiful. Succulent dark fruit, lavendar, rose petal, spice, new leather, blood orange, and a good deal of whole clus...
The 2021 Pinot Noir Doc's Ranch Swan & Calera Selection comes from Calera and Swan clone vines planted in marine sedimentary soil at 1,000 to 1,100 feet in altitude. Made with 50% whole clusters, it opens with pure tones of cinnamon, red cherry and pomegr...
