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The Grand Cru dry wines of Weiser-Künstler are among the most cerebral dry Rieslings made in the Mosel. They are wines of meditation, wines that seem to have something more to do with distillates or teas made from stone, ore and flower. They have very little easy fruit to hang one’s hat on. In other words, they are among the most thrilling wines from this fabled place.
The 2022er Enkircher Steffensberg Im Löwenbaum Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 87° Oechsle on old vines still trained on single pole in this prime Lieu-Dit at the heart of the Steffensberg and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (62 g/l). The wine offers a still rather backward nose made of pear, vineyard peach, apricot, cream, and spices. The wine develops the characteristic “orange-tangerine” touch on the palate which adds depth to the creamy and nicely zesty experience. The overall balance is one of subtle elegance and depth with a nice kick of zest to lift the flavors in the finish.
The 2020er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 96° Oechsle on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (77 g/l). it offers a subtly exotic nose made of apricot, melon, cassis, passion fruit, smoke, and a hint of almond. The wine develops the smooth yet racy intense presence of an Auslese on the palate and leaves one with a still rather sweet feel in the melon infused finish. This gorgeous subtly apricot-infused and creamy wine now just needs a few years of patience in order to firm up and deliver its goods.
The 2023er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 92-93° Oechsle on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (68 g/l). It immediately captures one’s attention as it reveals a comparatively rich and aromatic nose of fine exotic fruits, honey, fresh pineapple, William pear, acacia, mirabelle, plum, and cinnamon. The wine coats the palate with some juicy and slightly honeyed fruits yet leaves a fresh and nicely focused and refreshing long finish. There is good extract and presence, without any undue power. The aftertaste still needs to integrate its sweetness, which will happen in a decade or more