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For the first time, Maxime Chuerlin decided to use stems in his crown jewel, the 2019 Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru, settling on 25% whole bunch for this year. This was an astute decision, because it lends freshness and more complexity to the bouquet of blac...
Last of the 2018s, the 2018 Hermitage Ex Voto shows a riper, more sunny profile and has a killer nose of ripe blackberries, cassis, spice, game, woodsmoke, and bacon fat. The tannins from Hermitage always have a different feel from the Côte Rôtie releases...
The 2016 Cote Rotie La Landonne is showing a bit more grip than last time I tasted it, with hints of green coffee bean on the nose alongside ripe black cherries and a heap of dried spices. Medium to full-bodied, with ample concentration and plenty of tann...
The 2019 Côte Rôtie La Mouline is a bigger, richer Côte Rôtie. Co-fermented with a solid chuck of Viognier and around 85% destemmed (the same as the La Turque), this full-bodied effort has a kaleidoscope-like bouquet of bloody black and blue fruits, tapen...
Based on 90% to 95% botrytised grapes, the golden-yellow 2021 Ürziger In der Kranklei Riesling Beerenauslese offers a concentrated, piquant and minerally fresh nose with stewed apricot, candied lemon and flinty slate aromas. Rich but fine, the palate is v...
Lail's 2021 J. Daniel Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon blends lots from several high-end vineyards, including Heimark (Calistoga), Vine Hill Ranch (Oakville) and Steltzner (Stags Leap), plus Lail's own Mole Hill on Howell Mountain. It's an exciting wine, starting...
I was very much looking forward to the 2004 Viña Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva, the next vintage of this wine after the spectacular 2001. 2004 was a perfect climate year. This is a developed white that was matured in well-seasoned, neutral American oak bar...
The 2022 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is an exquisitely defined
bouquet with layers of pure red fruit, crushed rock, and a light sea
spray influence, very focused and conveying a sense of energy. The
palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins...
The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is very pure and harmonious on the nose with plush black cherry and cassis fruit, well-integrated oak and a floral aspect that becomes more prominent with time. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut ...
Some people think that Grand Cru white Burgundy is always big and rich, but this shows how certain of those sites are all about elegance and refinement. On the mid-palate there's wonderful silkiness, then the minerality builds and builds at the finish. A ...
The 2019 Vintage Port Nacional is a field blend, mostly Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão, Sousão and Tinta Roriz, aged for 18 months in old wood. It was bottled May 4, 2021, with 100 grams of residual sugar and 19.4% alcohol. This opened rathe...
This is a classic beauty. The 2019 d'Alceo, made with 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Petit Verdot, is dark and enriched, but magically, it is never heavy or bulky. It carries its weight with feather-like grace backed by dry tannins and lovely fruit layeri...
Cédric Bouchard’s 2020 Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée, disgorged in April 2024, is another brilliant rendition of this superb cuvée. Only a year apart from the incisive 2021 yet stylistically distinct, it offers immediate pleasure with aromas of pear, orange ...
More black raspberry, camphor, graphite, peppered meat, and powdered rock notes emerge from the 2019 Côte Rôtie Le Vialliere, another flat-out incredible wine from this family. Much straighter and more focused than the more opulent La Landonne, it has a d...
The 2023 Riesling Bockenauer Felseneck Grosses Gewächs 2022, from
blue Devonian slate, has immediate spice and slate savor, like citrus
squeezed on dry stone—fragrant, lifted, soaring. The palate is as ne
as a exible blade, sharp and precise. Nothing h...
Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon needs a fair bit of shaking to wake up notes of blackcurrant jelly, black raspberries, and mulberries, leading to hints of cinnamon stick, red roses, and pencil shavings. The medium-bodied palate is ...
Lastly, the tiny production 2020 Cornas Les Vieilles Fontaines comes from 80-year-old vines on granite soil. It's a more primordial effort, offering layers of black and blue fruits, rose petals, candied violets, bloody meat, and bouquet garni. Uber-rich, ...
