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Voge's 2020 Saint Joseph Les Cotes—from a parcel in Mauves—came across as slightly exotic in the blind-tasting lineup, with hints of violets, licorice and stone fruit. Maturing in older barriques, it's medium to full-bodied and supple on the palate, with ...
The 2022er Goldgrube Riesling, as it is referred to on the consumer label, is a bone-dry wine made from fruit harvested on up to 120-year-old un- grafted vines and was left for 1 year on its gross lees. It has a beautifully and finely reductive and very herbal nose of minty thyme, rosemary, white pepper, spearmint, flintstone, and other wild herbs, before showing fine scents of white flowers and lime tree. The wine starts off on a slightly round and creamy side, yet an acidic backbone clearly comes through and leads to a straight and quite spicy long finish. This defies the richer side of the 2022 vintage and proves superbly refined and playful. The aftertaste is all about smoke and white flowers and proves bone-dry in taste.
The 2022 Chardonnay Cuvée Anne comes from several vineyards (Justice, Koosah, Sojeau and Witness Tree) located on both volcanic and marine sedimentary soils. It was fermented and aged in 45% new, 350- and 500-liter barrels for 12 months, plus an additiona...
From the Grand Cru vineyard of Furstentum, this is a blend of 60% Pinot Gris + 20% Pinot Auxerrios + 20% Pinot Blanc; all are co-fermented and aged in small oak barrels of which 20% are new oak. The vines are around 40 years old. The fine texture remind...
The 2022 Pinot Gris Les Caracoles is shy, advancing just gentle lemon overtones. The palate is surprisingly linear and imbued with a lovely coolness and a streamlined body with a little oaky smoke. The 2022 is unusually linear, cool and bone dry. It's mos...
The 2020er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 96° Oechsle on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (77 g/l). it offers a subtly exotic nose made of apricot, melon, cassis, passion fruit, smoke, and a hint of almond. The wine develops the smooth yet racy intense presence of an Auslese on the palate and leaves one with a still rather sweet feel in the melon infused finish. This gorgeous subtly apricot-infused and creamy wine now just needs a few years of patience in order to firm up and deliver its goods.
The Grand Cru dry wines of Weiser-Künstler are among the most cerebral dry Rieslings made in the Mosel. They are wines of meditation, wines that seem to have something more to do with distillates or teas made from stone, ore and flower. They have very little easy fruit to hang one’s hat on. In other words, they are among the most thrilling wines from this fabled place.
The 2023er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 92-93° Oechsle on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (68 g/l). It immediately captures one’s attention as it reveals a comparatively rich and aromatic nose of fine exotic fruits, honey, fresh pineapple, William pear, acacia, mirabelle, plum, and cinnamon. The wine coats the palate with some juicy and slightly honeyed fruits yet leaves a fresh and nicely focused and refreshing long finish. There is good extract and presence, without any undue power. The aftertaste still needs to integrate its sweetness, which will happen in a decade or more
