Here we present only the third Kabinett Lauer has ever made from the Schonfels vineyard. Always, always – no matter if this is dry of off dry – you taste the site. Always, always, one of my favorite wines of the vintage.
-Importer notes (Vom Boden)
Vollenweider is quite simply, among the greatest practitioners of Kabinett on planet earth, part of a very small and elite group including Julian Haart, Egon Müller, Keller, Weiser-Künstler and Willi Schaefer – the young Julian Ludes of Hermann Ludes may join the ranks soon enough, but right now these are my five. Try and buy as much of this as you can.
The Goldgrube Spätlese 2023, as it is referred to on the consumer label, was harvested on very old un-grafted vines in the Portz sector of the vineyard, a south-west facing and higher up the hill vineyard and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar. It has a quite restrained yet refined and elegant nose of fine yellow peach, smoke, almond, may tree, lime tree, candied grapefruit, and anise. The wine shows a delicate juicy and smooth side on the palate, where fine creamy elements add to the overall suavity. The finish is velvety and very pure, and above all shows an animating freshness. This is a filigreed and refined Spätlese.
-Mosel Fine Wines
The 2022er Goldgrube Riesling, as it is referred to on the consumer label, is a bone-dry wine made from fruit harvested on up to 120-year-old un- grafted vines and was left for 1 year on its gross lees. It has a beautifully and finely reductive and very herbal nose of minty thyme, rosemary, white pepper, spearmint, flintstone, and other wild herbs, before showing fine scents of white flowers and lime tree. The wine starts off on a slightly round and creamy side, yet an acidic backbone clearly comes through and leads to a straight and quite spicy long finish. This defies the richer side of the 2022 vintage and proves superbly refined and playful. The aftertaste is all about smoke and white flowers and proves bone-dry in taste.
The 2022 Riesling Ayler Kupp Grosses Gewächs No. 18 was harvested in the steep mid-slope of the Ayler Kupp. Lauer points out that he is adamant that no overripe grapes are used for this. Ripe lemon peel with top notes of crushed citrus leaf and fresh yell...
Another bad-ass wine and one of the inspirations for our new campaign: “Spätlese is the new Kabinett.” I ask Florian how it’s selling. He says, “good,” and then adds this funny but honest line: “The Spätlese isn’t sweet here.” Seventy-four grams of residual sugar and it tastes almost dry. I don’t understand anything.
The epitome of delicacy in a Spätlese. It is in no way a dry wine, yet the tart and salty vibrations might make parts of your brain think it is? This is supremely focused and clear, with a slim form attenuated into something almost gossamer. Just outrageous. Again, dinner Spätlese – not for dessert.