What’s most striking about Malleron’s bottle—something the Sancerre obsessives will pick up on from the first sip—is the texture. Yes, this wine has the flinty minerality and floral bouquet. Yes, it’s got the straight line of bright, clean flavors and zippy acidity. But Malleron’s bottle is bolstered with a bit more ripeness—and combined with all of the above, it equals Sancerre at its best.
This is so polished and concentrated. It has superbly fresh lime, passion fruit and guava, as well as some fresh herbs and wet stones. The palate has attractively detailed and focused flavors with a zesty, fresh line of acidity and plenty of intense, live...