Key vineyards: Widows, Motukawa and Estate. Hand-picked selected lots within blocks. They're looking for the older vines. Less new oak than there used to be (though there is some sweet oakiness) and less ripe fruit. They start the ambient-yeast ferment in...
The dark and dusty 2014 Nerello Mascalese Vigna Vecchie smolders up with a blend of medicinal blackberries, cherries, balsam herbs and licorice. This flows across the palate like pure silk, yet with building tension. Tart wild berry fruits saturate, and a...
I love the wines from Bodegas Arrocal, as their vines are in the higher altitude village of Gumiel de Mercado, where diurnal temperature swings produce more refined wines than in much hotter sections of Ribera de Duero, such as around Valladolid. The 2021...