The 2023 Chateauneuf du Pape from Clos des Papes is exquisite, wafting from the glass with a captivating bouquet of sweet red berries, iris, dark cherries, menthol, blood orange and flowers. Medium- to full-bodied, layered and textured, it’s denser than usual, with a more pronounced structure and a lovely, fleshy core of fruit. Concluding with an ethereal, saline and weightless finish, this is a strong candidate for wine of the vintage—one that should evolve with grace over the coming years to attain a likely perfect score.