The 2023 Saint-Aubin Les Combes 1er Cru has a backward nose that demands coaxing from the glass. Wet pavement and almost flinty aromas percolate through the apple fruit tones. The palate is fresh, vibrant and quite sapid, with superb acidity, a twist of sour lemon and a brisk, lively nish that lingers. It's promising, but let's see if it matches the excellent 2022.