The 2023 Chardonnay Powder House is another of the more oral, weightless wines in this range. Chalk, mint, white pepper, crushed rocks, sage and mint lead into a core of white orchard fruit, lemon oil and marzipan. I especially admire its energy and overall vibrancy here. Saline notes confer freshness on the close.

Distinctive and aromatic, with notes of fresh-cut Fuji apple, crunchy star fruit, lemon cream, ginger and jasmine. There’s an appealing firmness to the acidity. Toasted, salted hazelnut, toffee and crunchy sea salt gain momentum on the finish, along with touches of toasted green tea and vetiver on the creamy finish. Drink now through 2039. 1,663 cases made.