The 2022 Spätburgunder Nieder-Flörsheimer Frauenberg Grosses Gewächs opens with smokiness that wraps itself around crunchy red cherry. A riper tone plays on the nose, but the palate melts into a veil of translucent, pure, bright fruit, held in a ne, silky spiderweb of tannins—the slight crunch and crackle of ne structure. This has grip, verve and vivid brightness. Wonderfully mouthwatering and totally ne-boned, it’s exquisitely elegant. (Bone-dry)