The 2023 Riesling Heiligenstein comes from core parcels of a Permian sandstone site and was made in stainless steel only. It has a subtle lift, almost with the coniferous notion of old-fashioned Cologne. The nose then verges into citrus peel, fragrant and expressive. The palate presents exquisitely pure citrus: ripe Amal lemon, pink grapefruit and zesty tangerine. All pitched against hard stone. It is bright, naked, racy, thrilling and exquisitely dynamic. What a ride! (Bone-dry)