The 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs is liable to overshadow even the emblematic Clos des Chênes this year. Offering up a profound bouquet of blackberries, sweet spices, rose petals, orange rind, summer truffles and forest floor, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and immensely concentrated, with lively acids, abundant but almost imperceptible tannins and a long, saline finish.