As I wrote last year, the 1995 Montrose is beginning to drink brilliantly, and this most recent example only confirms that. Wafting from the glass with a classic bouquet of red and black currant fruit, rich loamy soil, cigar box and black truffles, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with terrific concentration, ripe tannins and lively acids. The 1995 took its time, but this rather structured, powerful vintage of Montrose is now beginning to soften.