Sharp-eyed readers will notice the absence of the Les Clos, or at least a wine so designated. You might well wonder why. The explanation is that INAO, which regulates all things vinous in France, has lodged a complaint against the domaine’s use of the lieu-dit Les Clos for one of its three parcels. They have done this because of a dispute over whether one specific parcel is actually within the boundaries of Les Clos. The sale documents when the parcel was acquired by Louis Droin in 1920 indicate the name “Au Clos, lieu-dit Les Clos”. INAO however is arguing that the parcel is actually part of Valmur even though every vintage between 1920 and 2019 have included this parcel and was declared as Les Clos! While the issue is being resolved, Benoît Droin has chosen to continue including this parcel and bottle what is in essence his Les Clos under the cuvée name Homage à Louis. I underscore that the cuvée is correctly being declared as a grand gru, because in Chablis it is possible to combine parcels from different grand crus while maintaining grand cru status, though the right to use a specific lieu dit is lost. This has more prominent smoky mineral reduction wisps are present on the more elegant aromas of acacia blossom, iodine and shellfish. There is outstanding size, weight and richness to the large-scaled flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract while a pronounced stoniness becomes apparent on the compact, built-to-age and beautifully long finish. This too is very good and should have no trouble repaying a decade or so of cellaring. Drink 2032+