Aromas of cassis, woodsmoke, wild berries, loamy soil, orange rind and spices introduce the 2020 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains, a full-bodied, layered and velvety wine that's deep, concentrated and elegantly muscular, with lively acids and rich, powdery structuring tannins. As usual, it's built for the long haul.