Translucent yellow. Powerful, mineral-accented nectarine, orange, pear nectar, iodine and pungent flowers on the intensely perfumed nose. Smooth, chewy and dry in the mouth, offering wonderfully concentrated yet vibrant orchard and pit fruit flavors complemented by suggestions of fennel, sweet butter, saffron and candied lemon peel. Shows superb definition and finishes minerally, smoky and extremely long, with lingering citrus and pit fruit notes and a touch of smokiness.

This impressive white is complex, supple and elegant, though not shy on intensity. Opens with creamy, satiny notes of apricot, pear, lemon curd and passion fruit puree, with touches of toasted hazelnut, salted caramel, jasmine and green tea. The way the details mingle with and complete one another makes this as complex as it is refreshing, with a fresh thread of acidity weaving in and out. Drink now through 2036.

Powerful and concentrated, the 2018 Art Series Chardonnay has absolutely settled into itself after an extra 18 months or so in bottle from its release. The tropical characters that it saw initially have morphed into a glossy, exotically spiced full-bodied space, with salted peach, saffron, apple blossom, crushed rocks, graphite, mineral acidity and rivulets of phenolics. This is a muscular powerhouse, with briney grapefruit, tangelo, alpine herbs, hints of amaro and jasmine pearls. What a wine.