The 2017 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo is beautifully balanced and bright. Indeed, San Lorenzo is often my favorite single-vineyard expression from Beppe Russo, although I preferred some of the other expressions in this unique vintage. The wine shows elegance and purity, all clearly within the context of a warm growing season that produced overripe aromas in many of the red wines made on Etna. This expression holds back in terms of that overt ripeness, stopping cautiously at black fruit, sweet spice and volcanic ash. Pull this one out for a grilled veal or pork dinner.