As usual, the 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains is the most structured, tight-knit wine in the Chevillon cellar, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis, dark chocolate and rich soil, framed by smoky new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, richly tannic and concentrated, with imposingly broad shouldered structure and a deep, reserved core. Again, patience will be required and rewarded.