The 2014 Mouton-Rothschild has a really quite fantastic bouquet with intense blackberry, mint, graphite and tobacco aromas that could only come from Pauillac at the top of the pyramid. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, pure blackberry and raspberry fruit laced with cedar and a pinch of black pepper. There is mass and density to this wine that is uncommon in 2014, quite astonishing in length with that tongue tingling with spiciness long after the wine has departed. Contender for wine of the vintage? You bet. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.

The grilled character on the opening beats is more campfire than gunsmoke, just a little warmer and more evident than with the Lafite, meaning both estates are very much staying true to their character. Here you get waves of peony and rose petals, with raspberry and damson fruits, feels expansive and complex, punctuated by orange peel, pomegranate, leather, espresso, black tea, sweet smoked caramel, with plenty of lift and caressting tannins. Delicious, and growing into a spectacular wine as it ages. 100% new oak, Philippe Dhalluin director.